Suspension Set-up: The basics

If you are a road biker or a runner correct suspension setup is the key to fast smooth riding and consistent lap times. To get the most from your bike it needs to establish the conditions under which he was riding. It is considerably easier to configure the bike for the track as you know what conditions will be like for the next hour or so, and therefore can dial in the optimal configuration for the situation particular. How you change the configuration of the suspension depends on whether your bike will also have to cope with walking on the road. Unlike Road Runs are typically soft and grippy. So if you are only going to use the bike on the track that has the luxury of fitting harder springs and modifying the fork and shock internals. If you ride on the road and the track that probably wants to maintain a certain level of comfort and focus only on the optimization of existing equipment with incorrect suspension setup, tire wear is increased and handling suffers, which in turn can result in fatigue rider. Lap times can be dramatically slower and in extreme cases safety can be compromised. Hopefully the following guide will help you dial in your suspension for faster and safer driving in and out of the track. First you need to check the Fork and Shock sag: this is the amount the forks rear shock and settle under load. As do the following: push down on the fork several times to settle them, then mark the pole with a felt pen or put a cable tie where the dust seal is sitting. Next ask for help from a lift on the bars so the front wheel is just off the ground and measuring the amount the fork have moved down. This is the static sag (or unladen sag), this can be changed by adjusting the spring preload (more preload = less sag). Repeat the same process to the back, this time measuring the distance from the hub to a fixed point in the queue. Now you are ready to begin the configuration their suspension. The key is to do it slowly and take notes on the fly. To begin to walk on wet road with the track settings and work from there. Basic configuration: Check the following Forks sag 18th to 22nd for dry runway mm, 23-27 mm of rain. Shock sag 8-10mm for dry track, 10-14mm of rain. Check chain alignment. If is not correct, crab walking and bike wheel wear will increase. Good balance and pressure of tires from 30psi front and 32psi rear (both dry and wet). Steering head bearings and torque specifications – if too loose, head will shake at high speeds. Front-end alignment. Check alignment wheels with triple clamps. If out of alignment, fork geometry will be incorrect and steering will suffer. Accident damage, check for geometry framework. Stock Suspension Tuning Limitations manufacturers to design a bike that works moderately well for a large part of riders and usages. To accomplish this as economically as possible, using valves with very small venturis. These are then combined in a very basic shim stack which creates a curve damping of the suspension given component. At slower speeds this design can work moderately well, but at higher speeds, when the suspension must react more quickly, the suspension is not enough oil flow, and the experience hydraulic lock. With hydraulic lock, the holder and / or shock can not dampen correctly and handling suffers. The solution is to re-valve the active components to obtain a damping curve. No it does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, Kayaba, Showa) for its intended use and a lot of weight to improve their action. Also, if you can achieve the damping of the curve is needed, no matter what brand name is on the component. Often with stock components, when you turn the adjuster in full or you do not notice the difference. In part this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has made the damping curve in an area outside their ideal range. Moreover, because these valves are small venturis, the adjuster change makes little difference. After returning to valves, regulators will play, and when you make an adjustment, one may notice that how it affects the way the fork or shock performs. Another problem is the suspension with a balance of the springs that are used. Often, they are progressive, increasing spring with a higher compression distance. This means that the valve is correct only for part of spring, travel, all else is a compromise. If the factory does not install a ladder-type spring, is rarely the correct rate for the weight of the rider with gear. The solution is to install a type of line that coincides with the spring valve to the combined weight of the bike, rider and gear for the type of riding intended. Remember! • Always make small adjustments, more is not always best. • Keep notes of what they have done. • Waiver of adjustment is an art – be patient

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